What Does M1 Mean in Knitting?
M1 stands for Make 1 — a type of increase that adds a stitch without creating a hole. It's one of the most useful increases in knitting because it's nearly invisible in finished fabric, making it the preferred choice for shaping sleeves, gussets, and any place where you want the increase to disappear into the fabric. Patterns often specify M1L (left-leaning) or M1R (right-leaning), and knowing the difference makes your shaping look polished instead of lopsided.
How M1 Works — The Core Concept
Every M1 increase works by lifting the horizontal bar of yarn that runs between two stitches — called the running thread or the bar — and knitting into it to create a new stitch. That bar is always there between any two stitches; M1 exploits it.
The key to making M1 invisible is how you enter that lifted bar. If you knit into it straight (through the front loop), you create an open loop — a small hole. If you knit into it through the back loop, you twist the stitch, which closes the hole. All M1 variants work through the back loop (or equivalent) to create an invisible increase.
M1L — Left-Leaning Make 1
M1L is the left-leaning version. On the right side of the fabric, the completed stitch tilts to the left. Here's how to work it:
- Insert the left needle tip from front to back under the horizontal bar between the last stitch on the right needle and the first stitch on the left needle. You're picking up the bar from the front — the left needle enters from the front, goes under the bar, and the bar drapes over the needle from the front.
- Knit this lifted loop through the back loop. The right needle enters from behind the left needle and knits through the back of the lifted bar. This twists the stitch and closes any hole.
- Slide the lifted loop off the left needle. One new stitch made, leaning left.
The mnemonic: M1L — lift from front (Front = Left alphabetically isn't helpful, but the direction is: front lift → left lean). Think of it as picking up from the front because that's the motion you make.
M1R — Right-Leaning Make 1
M1R is the mirror image. On the right side of the fabric, it tilts to the right.
- Insert the left needle tip from back to front under the horizontal bar between the stitches. You're picking up the bar from behind — the left needle enters from the back, goes under the bar, and the bar drapes over the needle from the back.
- Knit this lifted loop through the front loop. Because you lifted from the back, the stitch is already pre-twisted; knitting through the front completes it without creating a hole.
- Slide the lifted loop off the left needle. One new stitch made, leaning right.
The placement logic for M1L and M1R mirrors the logic for SSK and k2tog: use M1R at the beginning of a shaping line (leans right, toward center), use M1L at the end of a shaping line (leans left, toward center). This creates symmetrical shaping on both sides of a sleeve or gusset.
When Your Pattern Just Says M1
Many patterns, especially older ones, write simply "M1" without specifying direction. In this case, use M1R as your default. M1R is the more commonly assumed direction in patterns that don't specify, and its slight rightward lean is less visually prominent in most knitting contexts.
If you're working a paired shaping (two increases symmetrically placed), and the pattern just says M1 twice, work M1R on the right side and M1L on the left side of the symmetry point. This gives you balanced shaping even when the pattern didn't bother to specify.
M1P — Make 1 Purl
M1P (Make 1 Purl) is used when you need an invisible increase in a purl context — on the wrong side of stockinette, or in reverse stockinette as the right side.
To work M1P: lift the horizontal bar between stitches with the left needle (same lifting direction as M1L or M1R depending on what leans you need), then purl through the back loop. Purling through the back loop is slightly awkward at first but produces the same closed, invisible result as the knit versions.
M1P is less common than M1L and M1R because most increases happen on right-side rows. But in ribbing adjustments, in short rows, or in reverse stockinette patterns, you'll encounter it.
M1 vs KFB vs YO — Which Increase to Use
All three add a stitch, but they look different:
- M1L/M1R: Completely invisible in smooth fabric. The best choice for sleeve increases, gusset shaping, and anywhere the increase shouldn't be seen.
- KFB (knit front and back): Creates a small visible bar or bump at the increase point. Easy to work, but noticeable in smooth stockinette. Good for textured fabrics where the bump won't show, or in patterns where it's specifically called for.
- YO (yarn over): Creates a hole intentionally. Used in lace and decorative contexts. Never substitute YO for M1 unless the pattern specifically asks for it.
If your pattern specifies M1, work M1L or M1R — do not substitute KFB unless you're comfortable with the difference in appearance and accept that the resulting increase will look slightly different.
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