Knitted vs crochet amigurumi
Amigurumi — small stuffed characters worked from a single strand of yarn in the round — is most associated with crochet. But knitting produces equally appealing results, with a slightly different character: knitted fabric is softer and more stretchy than crochet, which means knitted toys have a slightly more fluid, pillowy quality. They also tend to require a smaller needle relative to the yarn weight, because the more open knit fabric would otherwise show the stuffing through the gaps between stitches.
The basic construction is the same as crochet amigurumi: work in continuous rounds, increase to the desired width, work even, decrease to close, stuff firmly, close the opening. Separate pieces (limbs, ears, tails) are made the same way and sewn on.
Getting started: yarn and needle choice
Use a smooth, tightly spun yarn in DK or sport weight. Avoid fuzzy, hairy, or textured yarn — it obscures the stitch structure and makes seaming much harder. Cotton is a popular choice because it holds its shape, is washable, and comes in saturated colours. Smooth acrylic is also practical — fully machine washable, important for a child's toy.
Use a needle 0.5mm to 1mm smaller than the yarn manufacturer recommends. The denser fabric hides the stuffing. For DK weight (recommended needle 4mm), use 3-3.5mm needles. For sport weight (recommended 3.5mm), use 3mm.
You'll also need: polyfill stuffing (available at craft shops), a tapestry needle for seaming, and safety eyes if desired.
The basic sphere
The sphere is the foundation of most toy bodies and heads. Here's how to work one:
Start with the magic cast on
Cast on 6 stitches using the magic loop cast on: make a loop with the yarn tail, work 6 stitches into the loop (as if it's a ring), then pull the tail to close the ring. Place a stitch marker for the beginning of the round.
If the magic cast on is too fiddly, cast on 6 stitches onto DPNs, divide them across the needles, join in the round carefully, and proceed.
Increase phase
Round 1: Kfb in every stitch — 12 stitches.
Round 2: k1, kfb repeat — 18 stitches.
Round 3: k2, kfb repeat — 24 stitches.
Continue this pattern (work plain stitches equal to the round number minus 1, then kfb) until the sphere is the diameter you want. Each increase round adds 6 stitches.
Work even
Once the sphere is at maximum diameter, work 4-8 rounds even (no increases or decreases). This creates the equator of the sphere.
Decrease phase
Mirror the increases exactly: begin with k[same number as last plain section], k2tog and reduce by 6 stitches per decrease round. Before the very last few rounds, insert the safety eyes and stuff the sphere firmly.
Close
When 6 stitches remain, cut yarn leaving a 20cm tail. Thread onto tapestry needle, pass through all remaining stitches, pull tight, and pass through the centre to bury the tail.
Safety eyes
Safety eyes consist of a plastic domed eye piece and a washer that locks onto the post from the inside of the toy. They must be inserted before you close the toy — once the stuffing is in and the hole is closed, you can't add them.
Decide on eye placement before your last 8-10 rows of decreasing. Push the post of the eye through the fabric from the outside, then press the washer onto the post from the inside with firm pressure. You'll hear a click. Tug to confirm it's locked — it should not pull back through.
Safety eyes as sold are not appropriate for children under 3 due to choking hazard. For very young children, embroider eyes with yarn instead.
Knitting the stitches inside out
One elegant trick for knitted toys: work the sphere inside out, so the purl bumps face outward. The purl surface is slightly nubblier and hides stitch variation better than the smooth knit side. Many knitters find their gauge is more consistent working in purl (for those who knit Continental style) or find the texture more appealing on a stuffed toy. Try it both ways on your swatch and see which you prefer.
Building a simple character
From the basic sphere, you can make:
- A larger body sphere (work the increases further before the even section)
- Small egg-shaped heads (start the decrease phase slightly before the halfway point)
- Limbs (cast on 8-10 stitches, work as an I-cord or a small tube, stuff lightly, sew on)
- Ears (work a small flat disc: cast on 6, increase to 12-18 stitches over 3 rounds, cast off, sew on flat)
All parts are seamed with a tapestry needle using mattress stitch or a simple whipstitch. Join body parts before stuffing the final seam, or leave the body slightly understuffed to give the toy flexibility and a satisfying squishiness.