How to Knit Mittens — Step by Step Guide

Mittens are one of the most satisfying small knitting projects — they're quick, practical, and the thumb gusset that looks scary in patterns is actually straightforward once you understand what it's doing. This guide walks you through a top-down mitten in worsted weight, with full stitch counts for an average adult hand.

What You Need

• Yarn: Worsted weight, approximately 100m per mitten (200m per pair). A smooth, plied yarn in wool or wool blend works best — it has the elasticity that acrylic lacks and the warmth that mittens need.
• Needles: 4mm. DPNs or magic loop on a 80cm cable both work well. Magic loop is easier for beginners — fewer needles to manage.
• Tools: Stitch markers (at least 2), a length of waste yarn in a contrasting colour, tapestry needle.

Sizing

For an average adult hand (palm circumference roughly 20–21cm), cast on 40 stitches. For smaller hands (child or petite adult), use 32–36 stitches. For larger hands, use 44–48 stitches. All counts below are for 40 stitches.

Step 1 — The Cuff

Cast on 40 stitches and join for working in the round, placing a marker at the round start. Work in 2×2 ribbing (k2, p2) for 20–25 rounds. This gives about 5–6cm of cuff — enough to tuck into a sleeve or keep your wrist warm without adding bulk.

For a longer cuff that folds back, work 40–50 rounds and fold in half when wearing.

Step 2 — The Hand (Before the Thumb)

Switch to stockinette (knit every round). Work 4–6 rounds plain. You're now going to set up the thumb gusset.

Step 3 — The Thumb Gusset

The thumb gusset is a series of increases that creates a triangular wedge of extra stitches — these form your thumb. It sits on the palm side of the mitten (the first half of your round).

Set-up round: K1, place marker, M1L, k1, M1R, place marker, knit to end. (42 sts — 3 sts between markers)

Work 2 plain rounds.

Increase round: Knit to first marker, slip marker, M1L, knit to second marker, M1R, slip marker, knit to end. (2 sts increased)

Repeat (2 plain rounds, then 1 increase round) until you have 13 stitches between the markers. This takes about 5 increase rounds — roughly 15 rounds total from when you started the gusset. The mitten hand above the cuff should now measure about 6–7cm.

Step 4 — Placing the Thumb on Waste Yarn

This is the key technique. You're going to set the thumb stitches aside and continue knitting the main hand first.

1. Knit to the first marker, remove marker.
2. Thread a length of waste yarn onto a tapestry needle. Slip the 13 thumb stitches onto the waste yarn, remove second marker.
3. Cast on 1 stitch over the gap (backward loop cast on), then knit to end of round. (40 sts again)

You now have 40 stitches on your needles with the thumb stitches safely parked on waste yarn. Continue knitting the hand.

Step 5 — The Hand (After the Thumb)

Knit every round until the mitten reaches the tip of your little finger — roughly 4–5cm past the thumb opening, or about 9–10cm total from the end of the cuff. Try the mitten on your hand to check: the fabric should reach the base of your fingers, not beyond.

Step 6 — The Tip

Shape the tip with paired decreases. With 40 stitches arranged as 20 front / 20 back:

• Decrease round: Needle 1 (palm side): k1, ssk, knit to last 3, k2tog, k1. Needle 2 (back of hand): k1, ssk, knit to last 3, k2tog, k1. (4 sts decreased)
• Plain round: Knit.

Alternate until you have 16 stitches (8 per needle). Then work decrease rounds only (no plain rounds) until 8 stitches remain. Cut yarn, draw tail through remaining stitches, and pull tight.

Step 7 — The Thumb

Transfer the 13 held thumb stitches from waste yarn onto your needles. Pick up 2–3 stitches along the cast-on edge of the gap (this prevents a hole at the thumb join). Join for working in the round.

Knit every round until the thumb reaches the tip of your thumb — about 5–6 rounds for an average adult, or approximately 3–4cm. Try it on to check.

Thumb tip: K2tog; repeat from until 6–7 stitches remain. Cut yarn and draw through remaining stitches.

Common Mitten Problems

• Hole at the thumb join: This is very common. Pick up 1–2 extra stitches at the corners of the thumb opening and decrease them away on the first thumb round. If there's still a gap, Emma can help you sew it closed invisibly.
• Thumb is too tight: Pick up one more stitch along the gap edge when starting the thumb — this adds circumference without affecting the fit.
• Mitten won't go over knuckles: The cast-on stitch count is too low for your hand width. Rip back to before the thumb gusset, add 4 stitches to your base count, and redo.

Once you've made mittens, socks use many of the same techniques — especially the thumb gusset, which closely resembles the sock gusset.

Need help with your thumb? Get expert help from Emma →