How to Knit a Hat — Step by Step for Beginners

A hat is the perfect second project after a scarf — it teaches you to knit in the round, work a ribbed brim, and shape a crown with simple decreases. You'll finish it in a weekend and actually wear it. This guide gives you everything you need for a classic adult beanie.

What You Need

Yarn: DK or worsted weight, 100–150m. One 100g skein of most worsted yarns is enough. Choose something smooth and light-coloured for your first hat — you'll see your stitches clearly.

Needles: 4mm for worsted, 3.75mm for DK. A 40cm circular needle works well, or use DPNs for the crown.

Tools: Stitch marker, tapestry needle.

Sizing — How Many Stitches to Cast On

Hats work with negative ease — the knitted circumference should be 10–15% smaller than the wearer's actual head circumference. This is what makes the hat grip and stay on.

Measure head circumference (or use 56cm for an average adult).

Multiply by 0.85 to get your target knitted circumference: 56cm × 0.85 = 47.6cm.

With a gauge of roughly 20 stitches per 10cm in worsted, you need about 96 stitches. Round to a number divisible by 8 for easy crown decreases.

A simple starting point: cast on 96 stitches for a standard adult hat in worsted weight at 4mm. If your gauge is tighter or looser, adjust by 8 stitches at a time.

Step 1 — Cast On and Brim

Cast on 96 stitches using a long-tail cast on. This gives a neat, slightly stretchy edge. Join for working in the round, place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round.

Work in 2×2 ribbing (k2, p2) for 20–25 rounds (about 5–6cm). This forms the brim. If you want a folded brim, work 10–12cm of ribbing instead — fold it up before wearing.

Step 2 — The Body

Switch to stockinette (knit every round) and work until the hat measures 20–22cm from the cast-on edge, or about 15–16cm from where the ribbing ends. This total height gives you enough fabric to fold a cuff over or wear as a slouchy beanie if you prefer.

For a more fitted beanie, work to 18–19cm total. For a slouchy hat, work to 24–26cm.

Step 3 — Crown Decreases

The crown is shaped with paired k2tog decreases spaced evenly around the hat. With 96 stitches, work as follows:

Round 1: K10, k2tog; repeat from to end. (88 sts)

Round 2 and all even rounds: Knit.

Round 3: K9, k2tog; repeat from to end. (80 sts)

Round 5: K8, k2tog; repeat from to end. (72 sts)

Round 7: K7, k2tog; repeat from to end. (64 sts)

Round 9: K6, k2tog; repeat from to end. (56 sts)

Round 11: K5, k2tog; repeat from to end. (48 sts)

Round 13: K4, k2tog; repeat from to end. (40 sts)

Round 15: K3, k2tog; repeat from to end. (32 sts)

Round 17: K2, k2tog; repeat from to end. (24 sts)

Round 19: K1, k2tog; repeat from to end. (16 sts)

Round 21: K2tog; repeat from to end. (8 sts)

When you reach the final 8 stitches, switch to DPNs if you haven't already — a circular needle becomes awkward with so few stitches.

Step 4 — Finishing

Cut your yarn leaving a 15cm tail. Thread onto a tapestry needle and draw through the remaining 8 stitches, removing them from the knitting needle as you go. Pull snug to close the top of the hat. Push the needle through to the inside and weave in the end securely.

Weave in your cast-on tail at the brim. Block by soaking in warm water, squeezing gently (never wring), and laying flat to dry or stretching over a balloon or bowl.

Tips for a Better Hat

Check gauge before casting on. A 5cm difference in gauge means a hat that fits a 12-year-old or won't go over your head. Knit a quick 15cm square and count your stitches.

Switch to DPNs early. When the circular needle is too cramped (usually under 60 stitches), DPNs are easier than wrestling with a short cable.

The plain rounds between decrease rounds matter. Skipping them makes the crown too pointy. Work every plain round as written.

Block everything. Even a simple hat looks professional after blocking — stitches even out and the brim rolls less.

If your hat is too big, too small, or your crown has a gap at the top, ask Emma and get a fix in minutes →