How to Join a New Ball of Yarn — 4 Methods That Work

Running out of yarn mid-project is inevitable. How you join the new ball determines whether you have a clean, invisible seam or a lumpy knot that works loose after washing. The right method depends on your yarn fiber, where you are in the pattern, and how much you want to deal with ends later.

When to Join — Timing Matters

The single most important rule: join at the start of a row when knitting flat, or at the end of a round when knitting in the round. Mid-row joins are possible but create a weak point in the fabric and two ends to weave in at an awkward location.

If you can see you're running low on yarn, count your stitches. A rough test: drape the remaining yarn across the row three times. If there's not enough for three widths, it's time to join now rather than after you've started the row and run out in the middle.

For in-the-round knitting, join at the beginning of the round marker if possible, or at an underarm or seam point where the join is least visible.

Method 1: Simple Tail Join (Most Common)

This is the default method most knitters use: drop the old yarn, start knitting with the new ball leaving a 6-inch tail, and weave in both ends later.

The trick is what you do with those tails. Weave them in in opposite directions — old tail woven to the left, new tail woven to the right — through 5–7 stitches of the same color row. Don't knot. Knots come loose in wool; proper weaving doesn't. Thread a tapestry needle, work through the backs of stitches in one direction, then back 2–3 stitches in the opposite direction to anchor. Trim.

If you're knitting a two-color project, weave the tail through stitches of the matching color. In stockinette, work tails along the purl bumps on the wrong side — they'll be invisible from the front.

Method 2: Russian Join (No Ends to Weave)

The Russian join creates a permanent join between two yarn ends before you start knitting, leaving no ends to weave later. It works best with plied yarn (yarn with multiple twisted strands).

1. Thread the tail of the old ball onto a tapestry needle. Loop the yarn back on itself, creating a loop about 3 inches wide.
2. Weave the tapestry needle through the plies of the old yarn for about an inch, creating a self-loop that won't pull out.
3. Thread the tail of the new ball through the loop you just made in the old yarn.
4. Repeat the weaving process on the new yarn — loop it back and weave the needle through its own plies for an inch.
5. Pull both ends to tighten the join. The two loops interlock and lock each other.

The result is slightly thicker at the join point for a few stitches, but it's completely secure and creates zero loose ends. Ideal for colorwork where you're changing yarns constantly, or for any project where weaving in dozens of ends would be tedious.

It does not work well with single-ply yarn or very tightly twisted yarn — there aren't enough plies to weave through without splitting the yarn.

Method 3: Spit Splice (Invisible, Wool Only)

The spit splice creates a join so seamless it's almost invisible — but it only works with feltable animal fiber (wool, alpaca, some mohair). It won't work with superwash wool, cotton, linen, acrylic, or any fiber that doesn't felt.

1. Unply the last 2 inches of both yarn ends by separating the strands.
2. Trim away half the plies from each end, so each end is about half its normal thickness.
3. Overlap the thinned ends by about 1.5 to 2 inches.
4. Wet them — spit works better than water because the enzymes help the fibers bond, though plain water works too.
5. Hold the overlapped section in your palm and rub your hands together vigorously for 20–30 seconds. The friction felts the fibers together.
6. Tug the join firmly to check it holds. If it pulls apart, re-wet and rub more.

A successful spit splice is as strong as the rest of the yarn. There are no ends to weave and no bulk at the join. It is genuinely the cleanest possible join for feltable fibers.

Method 4: Weaving In As You Go

Instead of leaving ends to weave in later, you catch the yarn tails with your working yarn as you knit the first few stitches after a join. Every few stitches, loop the working yarn under and over the tail before continuing. This traps the tail inside the fabric as you knit.

It requires a bit of attention and practice to do neatly — if you catch the tail inconsistently, it can show through to the right side. Work it on the wrong side of the fabric. After 6–8 stitches, the tail is secured and you can trim it close.

This method works in any fiber and is particularly useful in colorwork or stranded knitting where you're constantly changing yarns.

What to Do With a Very Short Tail

If you misjudged and only have 2–3 inches of tail left, you don't have enough to weave in properly. Thread that tail onto a tapestry needle, and work it through the backs of stitches in one direction — then back 1–2 stitches. It won't be as secure as a longer tail, but it will hold through normal wear. Trim very close.

For extremely short tails (less than 1 inch), you may need to use a small amount of fabric glue designed for textiles — apply a drop at the base of the tail and let it dry before trimming. This is a last resort but better than a tail that will eventually work free.

Related Topics

• How to bind off — basic and stretchy methods
• How to cast on — 5 methods for different situations
• How to fix a twisted cast on

Join looking lumpy or pulling out after washing? Emma can diagnose the issue →