How to Join Yarn in Knitting: 5 Methods Compared

Running out of yarn mid-row or needing to switch colours is one of those moments that makes new knitters freeze. How do you join yarn in knitting without leaving a knot, a bump, or a hole? It's a great question, and the answer is: it depends on your project, your yarn, and where you are in your work. Let me walk you through five reliable methods so you can pick the right one every time.

When Do You Need to Join Yarn?

You'll need to join new yarn whenever:

You've nearly finished your current ball and need to start a new one
You're switching to a different colour (colourwork, stripes, or colour blocking)
The pattern calls for a different yarn weight or type partway through
Your yarn broke (it happens — don't panic)

The basic principle for every join is the same: start using the new yarn while securing both the old tail and the new tail so nothing unravels. The difference between the methods is how and where you do that.

Method 1: The Simple Overlap Join (Easiest)

hands holding blue and white knitting yarn

This is the most straightforward way to join yarn, and it works for almost any project:

When you have about 6 inches of your old yarn left, stop at the end of a row (if possible) or at a point where a seam will be.
Hold the tail of the old yarn and the beginning of the new yarn together, overlapping them by about 4 inches.
Using the new yarn, knit the next stitch. Hold both tails to the back of your work so they get caught between the old and new yarn.
Knit the next few stitches with the new yarn while holding both tails along the back of your work, trapping them in place.
Continue knitting with the new yarn normally.
When you finish your project, go back and weave in both ends securely.

Best for: Any project where you'll be seaming or where the join will be on an edge. Also great for felted projects where the join will disappear completely.

Downside: The overlapping area can feel slightly thicker. In a very smooth, fine-gauge fabric, it might be slightly visible.

Method 2: The Russian Join (Invisible, No Weaving)

The Russian join weaves the old and new yarn ends into themselves, creating a completely invisible join with no tails to weave in later. It takes a little extra effort upfront but saves you time at the end.

Thread about 6 inches of your old yarn onto a tapestry needle.
Insert the needle back into the same strand of yarn, splitting the plies and weaving it through itself for about 3 inches. You're essentially creating a loop in the end of the old yarn.
Pull the needle through so the yarn is woven into itself. It should feel secure and not much thicker than the original yarn.
Thread the beginning of your new yarn onto the tapestry needle.
Pass the new yarn through the loop you created in the old yarn.
Weave the new yarn back into itself the same way you did with the old yarn — split the plies and thread it through itself for about 3 inches.
Pull both ends snug. The two yarns are now linked through each other's loops, and the tails are woven into the strands themselves.
Trim any tiny ends that stick out, and continue knitting.

Best for: Smooth, plied yarns (wool, cotton, acrylic). Projects where you want a truly invisible join. People who hate weaving in ends.

Downside: Doesn't work well with single-ply, fuzzy, or very slippery yarns. The joined area is slightly thicker, which can show in very fine lace.

Method 3: The Spit Splice (Felted Join for Animal Fibers)

If you're working with a non-superwash animal fiber (wool, alpaca, mohair), you can actually felt the ends of two yarns together into one continuous strand. It's called the spit splice, and it's brilliant:

Unravel about 2 inches of both the old and new yarn ends, separating the plies.
Overlap the unraveled ends by about 2 inches, twisting the plies of the old yarn together with the plies of the new yarn.
Wet your palms slightly (yes, with water or — traditionally — spit) and roll the overlapped area vigorously between your hands. The friction and moisture cause the wool fibers to felt together.
Keep rolling for 30–60 seconds until the join feels secure and the yarn is roughly the same thickness as the rest of the strand.
Give it a gentle tug to test it. If it holds, you're good to go. If it separates, roll it a bit more.

Best for: Non-superwash wool, alpaca, mohair — any animal fiber that felts. This is the gold standard join for wool projects because it's completely invisible and adds zero bulk.

Downside: Only works with feltable animal fibers. Does not work with superwash wool, cotton, acrylic, silk, or plant fibers.

Method 4: The Knit-In Join (Good for Colour Changes)

When you're joining a new colour (for stripes or colourwork), the knit-in join secures the new colour while you work:

On the stitch before you want the new colour to start, leave the old colour and pick up the new colour.
Knit the first stitch with the new colour, leaving a 6-inch tail of the new yarn hanging at the back.
On the next stitch, hold the tail of the new yarn along the top of your needles and knit around it (this is called "trapping" the float). Do this for the next 3–4 stitches.
Continue with the new colour. The tail is now trapped securely along the back of several stitches.
When you come back to weave in ends, the tail is already partially secured and just needs a few more stitches of weaving.

Best for: Colour changes in stripes, fair isle, or intarsia. Any project where you need to switch between yarns cleanly.

Downside: Not ideal for joining the same colour in the middle of a row (the colour change point would be visible).

Method 5: The Braided Join (Strong and Invisible)

This is a more advanced version of the overlap join that distributes the extra bulk over a wider area, making it nearly invisible:

Overlap the old and new yarn by about 6 inches.
Separate the plies of both yarns where they overlap.
Intertwine the plies of the old and new yarn together, like a tiny braid.
Knit through both strands in the overlap zone. The extra bulk is spread across several stitches and virtually invisible in the finished fabric.
Weave in the remaining tails when you finish the project.

Best for: Multi-ply yarns where you want a smooth, invisible join and the Russian join feels too fiddly.

Downside: Works best with yarns that have 3 or more plies. Not suitable for single-ply yarns.

Which Method Should You Use?

Here's a quick decision guide:

Non-superwash wool? Spit splice — it's invisible and permanent
Smooth plied yarn (any fiber)? Russian join — no ends to weave in
Changing colours? Knit-in join — clean colour transitions
Single-ply or fuzzy yarn? Simple overlap join — easy and reliable
Multi-ply yarn, want invisible? Braided join — strong and smooth

Where to Join Yarn

Whenever possible, join new yarn at the edge of your work (the beginning or end of a row) rather than in the middle. Edge joins get hidden in seams or selvedge stitches and are completely invisible in the finished project. If you must join mid-row (in colourwork, for example), try to place the join in a less visible area, such as under the arm of a sweater or at the back of a scarf.

One thing you should never do: tie a knot. Knots in knitting are visible, they create a hard lump in the fabric, and they can come undone over time. Every method above is more secure and more attractive than a knot. Trust the weave.

You've Got This

Joining yarn is one of those skills that becomes second nature after you've done it a few times. Start with the simple overlap join for your first project, and as you get more comfortable, try the Russian join or spit splice. Each method has its place, and knowing all five gives you the confidence to handle any yarn-change situation that comes your way.

Have questions about joining yarn or a specific project you're working on? Drop them in the comments or send us a message — we're here to help.